Tikal and the Worldtree

The longest and most rewarding trip I've taken so far in Guatemala has been to Tikal and Las Flores, far north in the Peten department. The area surrounding the archaeological park is a wildlife reserve, which makes for wonderful views of the natural environment and its inhabitants. We saw crocodiles/alligators, a coatimundi, a fox, howler and spider monkeys, wild turkeys that look similar to their peacock cousins, and all kinds of colorful birds (excluding the quetzal, unfortunately).
The downside of the whole trip was that we traveled two nights in overnight buses. We spent 9 or so hours in transit between the capital and Las Flores. I managed to sleep a few hours on the trip to Peten, but I hardly caught a wink on the way back. It took me almost a week to get back on track.

How many gringos can you fit in a van? We made room for fifteen, plus several people's entire luggage. That's not to say we had leg room. I traveled with my knee in my face for several hours.

At least we traveled in style. Benz, baby.

Our bathroom stop, about halfway between Xela and Guate City. No need to travel further, guys. We're already at Tikal!

^ Everyone's anxious to get back on the road. Hotel Tikal just isn't all it's cracked up to be. ^

On the other hand, Patrick looks pretty excited.

In Guate City, we ate dinner in the food court at Tikal Futuro, a big modern mall that our guide considered the only safe place in the entire city.

Here's a posterized pic of Melissa and Patrick in the food court of this gaudy, creepy mall.

After 4 hours in a minibus, 2 hours in a food court, a 9-hour overnight bus, and another hour or two in yet another minibus, we finally arrived at Tikal, perhaps the world's most naturalistic theme park. Above is the park map at the entrance. We toured most of the area depicted, not that I could find my way from one complex to the next. I remember studying this site in great detail in Maya Archaeology class, but without reviewing my notes I couldn't remember much of the significance of its layout.

Everyone was anxious to unpack and change into skimpier clothing for the hot rainforest weather.

^ Scenes from the forest around Tikal ^

^ Shot of a reconstructed temple structure ^

You can just barely make out the raised snout and eyes of this tiny lil cocodrilo. Alas, my camera doesn't have the power zoom that those national geographic guys use. The guide informed us that the papa croc ate the largest of his male offspring, perhaps to prevent future competition.

^ Just a friendly reminder ^

Pictured above is the Ceiba, the national tree of Guatemala and a sacred monument in the Maya religion. The enormous tree is representative of the world-tree that holds up the sky and leads (with its roots) into the underworld. Standing before such a tall and imposing tree, I could certainly understand why this species held such importance for the Maya, and why the current Guatemalan government would adopt it as a national symbol.

Another important tree is the Copal, the bark of which is used in important Maya religious ceremonies.

In this picture you can see a "strangler fig" latched onto a tree. Eventually the strangler fig will overpower the host tree, using up all the available nutrients and light. The host tree will die, termites will eat it, and the fig will remain as a hollow structure that other animals might use as a shelter. Nature, red in tooth and claw.

The ground was littered with these strange flowers. The grass is bright white at the center. To me it seemed like we were walking on little stars.

This is the first temple we encountered and climbed on our tour. I believe it's the temple in complex Q.

Our guide explained the echo effect between the two twin temples in the main plaza. The buildings were designed to function as amplifiers for the priests who shouted from their summits.

The group listening to the guide explaining something. Rebecca's ready to climb some temples.

^ The group rests atop one of the larger temples at Tikal ^

Here, the group is standing atop the Temple of the Masks and photographing its twin, the Temple of the Jaguar, across the plaza. Or vice versa. I forget.

Temple of the Jaguar, in the central plaza of Tikal.

A modern-day Maya religious altar, in the plaza between the twin temples. Followers of the traditional Maya religion burn copal resin, candles, and various types of offerings within the concrete ring.

^ Rebecca's unique climbing style ^

Rebecca and Julie taking a rest during one of their temple climbing workouts

Here's a view of the backside of one of the smaller temples

And the largest temple at Tikal, looming over the tree line.

My auto-photography from the top of the tallest temple. You can see the background that was used in the original Star Wars movies.

^ Me again ^

Here's a group shout taken above the tallest temple at Tikal

^ You can't just climb up the steps of this one. They're still being reconstructed. But there's a fancy wooden stairway system to get you to the top. ^

^ Lydia en route to the top ^

^ Looking down from the top of another temple ^

Tommy and Sarah atop Temple Q


We spent the following day relaxing along the shores of Lago Peten Itza. The above are shots of the gorgeous landscape along our drive to the beach.

And Lago Peten Itza:

Las Flores is an almost-island city connected to the mainland by a constructed strip of road. It's a pleasant little town, though nearly strangled by tourists. We found a little restaurant run by a group of ladies. They only served what could be called entrecomidas: tostadas, pasteles, and various delicious finger foods. The flan was a welcome surprise.

^ The main church on the island ^

This organization provides education about STDs and child development. They also appear to operate a "Sex tip" radio station or program. I wonder how much of it is really "tips" and how much is simply "wear a condom."

AIDS is a salient topic in Guatemala. Near the beach where we passed the day, this sign warns that "AIDS kills, but you can avoid it!" It goes on to list the most common means of transmission.

Lydia looking smashing at the restaurant in Flores where we ate lunch.

And to end this entry, a photo of me and Julie and Rebecca after dinner. Come to think of it, I believe this is the last photo I took of us together. Julie and Rebecca scrambled off to Belice after the Tikal trip.
If you girls are reading this, you'd better drop me a line!